Solo-ish Summer 2025 Days 32-34: 3 Days in Kraków – A Journey of History, Heart, and Unexpected Joy
After a smooth and scenic drive from Berlin to Kraków in our private mini-bus—complete with a cheerful, professional driver, David, who made the hours pass easily—we arrived in Poland’s former royal capital by mid-afternoon. Our group checked into our hotel and had just enough time to freshen up before heading out for a city overview walking tour led by Mikael, our Chief Experience Officer (and Kraków enthusiast).
Kraków instantly gave off a mix of medieval charm and youthful energy. Mikael walked us through the cobbled streets of the Old Town, past the stunning Rynek Główny (Main Market Square), the towering St. Mary’s Basilica, and the historic Cloth Hall.
That evening, our group stuck close to the hotel and headed to a traditional Polish restaurant. I split a mixed platter with one of our group members—who, like me, was game to try anything once. We weren’t 100% sure of everything we were eating (blood sausage? maybe?), but it didn’t matter—almost everything was hearty, warm, and delicious. The meal ended in laughter and a shared sense of culinary adventure.
A Day of Deep Reflection: Auschwitz-Birkenau
The next morning started early. We met at 5:30am to begin what would be one of the most emotionally challenging and important experiences of the trip: a guided visit to the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp.
Located about 70 km west of Kraków, Auschwitz is a name that carries the weight of unspeakable human suffering. It was the largest of the Nazi death camps, where over 1.1 million people—mostly Jews—were murdered. The complex actually comprises two main sites: Auschwitz I, the original camp, and Auschwitz II-Birkenau, the vast extermination camp built nearby.
Our guided tour began at Auschwitz I. We walked through the infamous “Arbeit Macht Frei” gate, and explored several preserved blocks that now house exhibits. Some rooms contained mountains of shoes, suitcases, eyeglasses, and even human hair—stark, devastating reminders of the individuals behind the statistics.
I found the entire experience incredibly difficult to process, and when the group continued on to Birkenau, I chose to sit that portion out. I needed a moment of quiet. From what others shared, Birkenau was overwhelming in its scale—barracks stretching as far as the eye can see, watchtowers, the remains of gas chambers. It drove home the industrial scale of the Holocaust in a way that words or photographs never could.
Pierogi, Wawel Castle, and a Little Lightness
After returning to Kraków in the early afternoon, a few of us sought comfort in something simple: pierogi. We found a cozy café and ordered plates of the beloved Polish dumplings—some stuffed with cheese and potato, others with wild mushrooms and cabbage. Warm, doughy, and full of flavor, it was exactly what we needed.
In the spirit of shifting gears, I set off solo to explore Wawel Castle and Wawel Cathedral, two of Kraków’s crown jewels perched on a hill overlooking the Vistula River. Entry to Wawel is based on timed tickets, with different exhibits requiring separate passes. I opted for a combination that gave me access to:
The State Rooms (Second Floor of the Castle): These grand rooms are furnished with tapestries, Renaissance-era furniture, and massive portraits. They give a glimpse into royal life during the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
The Crown Treasury and Armory: This exhibit was a fascinating look at regal power through the centuries—gleaming swords, elaborate armor, and a dazzling display of royal insignia and jewels.
The “Lost Wawel” / Between the Walls Exhibition: A more archaeological side of the castle, where you can see excavated ruins and learn about the layers of history beneath the current structure.
The Dragon’s Den: A limestone cave beneath the castle, tied to the legend of the Wawel Dragon. It’s a short but fun walk ending near a fire-breathing dragon statue (yes, it breathes real flames on a timer!).
Wawel Cathedral: which stands just beside the castle and is one of the most important religious buildings in Poland. It’s where Polish kings were crowned and buried, and it has a quiet grandeur that’s hard to put into words. Inside, you’ll find a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture—layered and complex, much like Polish history itself. The cathedral is filled with side chapels, each richly decorated and many containing tombs of Polish monarchs, national heroes, and saints. One of the most striking features is the Sigismund Chapel, often called the most beautiful Renaissance chapel north of the Alps. I also climbed the Sigismund Tower, which houses the massive Sigismund Bell—one of the largest bells in Europe. It takes several strong people to ring it, and it’s only sounded on momentous national occasions. The climb up is steep and narrow, but the view from the top is worth every step.
That evening, our group came back together for something a little lighter: a Polish vodka tasting. Mikael introduced us to a local bar that served flights of flavored vodkas—cherry, hazelnut, lemon, and more. It was a cheerful, laughter-filled end to a heavy day, and it reminded me how important shared joy is in balancing the weight of historical memory.
Salt Mines, Street Food, and Surprises
On our final day in Kraków, I visited the Wieliczka Salt Mine, just outside the city—and it completely blew me away. This UNESCO World Heritage Site features over 300 kilometers of underground tunnels and chambers carved entirely out of rock salt. The guided tour took us more than 130 meters below ground, past chapels, sculptures, salt lakes, and even an underground cathedral (complete with chandeliers made of salt crystals). It was a surreal experience—far more impressive than I ever expected.
Back in the city, I joined a walking food tour that turned out to be one of the best I’ve done. We sampled local specialties like zapiekanka (Polish-style baguette pizza), obwarzanek (Kraków pretzels), smoked cheese from the Tatra Mountains, pickled herring, and more pierogi (because why not?). It was the perfect way to taste the heart of the city and learn about its culinary traditions.
The day wound down with casual drinks and conversation with several members of our group. We shared stories from the day and reflected on how Kraków had surprised us—how its layers of beauty, pain, resilience, and creativity left a deep impression.
Onward to Prague
As I write this, we’re on the road again—this time bound for Prague. But I leave Kraków with a full heart. It’s a city I didn’t expect to love, but it’s now carved a place in my memory, just like the carvings in the salt mines or the echo of footsteps in Auschwitz. Some places stay with you—and Kraków is definitely one of them.
Stay tuned for adventures from the Czech Republic!
