Solo Summer 2025 Days 14-15: Gothic Grandeur, Kölsch Culture, and a Hint of Modern Art

After a week teaching at FH Aachen University, I rolled into Cologne on a crisp Saturday morning train from Aachen, ready for two full days of exploring one of Germany’s most iconic cities. With its soaring cathedral spires, vibrant old town, rich art scene, and beer culture like no other, Cologne delivered a memorable blend of history, culture, and good cheer.

Day 14: Arriving to Spires and Stories

I checked into the Hilton Cologne, which turned out to be a perfect base for my stay. Just a few minutes’ walk from the main train station and the cathedral, this modern hotel occupies a converted post office building and has all the comfort and quiet you need after a travel day.

Naturally, my first stop had to be Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom)—you can’t miss it, literally. It towers over the city at 157 meters and commands your attention with every step closer. Construction began in 1248 to house the relics of the Three Wise Men, and it took over 600 years to complete. The Gothic detail is staggering, and the interior is just as impressive, especially the golden Shrine of the Three Kings and Gerhard Richter’s stunning modern stained glass window. I didn’t climb the 533 steps to the top (I blame my backpack… and breakfast), but the view is apparently well worth the effort.

After wandering the cathedral, I took a self-guided audio walking tour through the old town. These kinds of tours are perfect for solo travelers—you move at your own pace and soak in the backstories behind Roman ruins, medieval guild houses, and the city’s resilience through World War II bombings. The tour wound through narrow alleys, riverside promenades, and leafy squares, each revealing a new layer of Cologne’s story.

For dinner, I headed to Servus Colonia Alpina, an Alpine-style restaurant near the cathedral. It’s like walking into a cozy Bavarian mountain hut, and the food matched the vibe—think schnitzel, cheese spätzle, and crisp German beer served in hefty mugs. It was hearty and warm and exactly what I needed after a full day on my feet.

Day 15: Modern Art and Kölsch Adventures

The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast at the Hilton, I walked over to the Museum Ludwig, located right next to the cathedral. This is Cologne’s modern and contemporary art museum, and it’s fantastic. The museum was founded in the 1980s after art collectors Peter and Irene Ludwig donated hundreds of works, including one of the world’s largest collections of Picasso paintings. The Pop Art section—featuring Warhol, Lichtenstein, and more—is especially fun. It’s a nice counterpoint to all the medieval and Gothic history packed into the rest of the city.

By early afternoon, I was hungry again (traveling is hard work), so I made my way to Augustiner am Heumarkt, a lively beer hall with roots in the Bavarian tradition. The restaurant serves beer from the Augustiner Brewery in Munich, which dates back to 1328, and the food leans heavily into southern German comfort food. I had roast pork with potato dumplings and sauerkraut, washed down with a crisp Kölsch. Though Kölsch beer is local to Cologne, the Augustiner version was a nice twist.

After a rest and a stroll along the Rhine promenade, I joined The Kölsch Crew for an evening pub crawl. If you’re looking to understand Cologne’s beer culture (and meet fellow travelers), this is the way to do it. We visited several traditional “Brauhaus” pubs where Kölsch beer is served in small cylindrical glasses called Stangen. We even visited the famous pub and sat at the same table Bill Clinton visited in the 90’s. The beer flows freely, and so do the stories—about how the waiters (called Köbes) will keep refilling your glass until you cover it with a coaster, and about Cologne’s friendly rivalry with Düsseldorf’s Altbier. The group was fun, the host informative, and I ended the night with a new appreciation for this city’s spirited nightlife.

Next Stop: Gengenbach and the Black Forest

This morning, I packed up and boarded a train south toward the Black Forest, where I’ll be staying in the town of Gengenbach for four nights. Known for its timber-framed houses and storybook streets, Gengenbach looks like something out of a fairy tale. I’m looking forward to slowing down, hiking through the forest, sipping local wine, and taking day trips around the region.

Cologne was the perfect mix of history, reverence, and revelry. Whether you come for the architecture, the art, or the beer (and ideally all three), this city knows how to welcome travelers with open arms—and full glasses. Prost!