Solo-ish Summer 2025 Day 38: Český Krumlov - A Fairy Tale Town with a Side of Heatstroke

Today began with a scenic mini-bus ride from Prague to Český Krumlov — a picture-perfect town in South Bohemia that feels straight out of a medieval fairy tale. As we pulled into town, cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs welcomed us, framed by the winding Vltava River and the imposing Český Krumlov Castle.

We kicked things off with a walking tour through the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site packed with charm: narrow alleyways, colorful Renaissance facades, and flower boxes overflowing with blooms. Our guide led us through the town’s winding lanes, past the castle grounds, and down toward the river, pointing out quirky details and centuries-old buildings. The town has a quiet magic — like it hasn’t quite caught up to the present day, and doesn’t want to.

No visit to Český Krumlov would be complete without a stop at the castle — and ours didn’t disappoint. Perched on a hill above the town, Český Krumlov Castle is the second largest castle complex in the Czech Republic (after Prague Castle) and dominates the skyline with its mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. The views from the top are stunning — red rooftops stretching out below, the Vltava looping through the town like a ribbon.

One of the more unexpected features of the castle? Bears. Yes, actual bears. The castle moat has been home to bears for centuries — a quirky tradition that began in the 16th century when the noble Rosenberg family, who claimed a connection to the noble Orsini family of Italy (whose name is tied to “ursa,” Latin for bear), decided to keep the animals as a symbol of power. While it’s definitely a draw for tourists, it was also a bit surreal to peer over the stone wall and see a bear lounging by the water below. Unfortunately, the enclosure for tese bears is too small and they are planning to be relocated by 2030.

After exploring the courtyards and taking pictures of the ornately painted tower and amazing vistas, we made our way through the castle gardens — beautifully manicured and peaceful, a green oasis above the town. Tucked away in the gardens is another surprise: a revolving outdoor theater. The stage stays still, but the audience seating slowly rotates to face different parts of the garden as the performance unfolds. It’s one of the only theaters of its kind in the world, and while we didn’t catch a show, just seeing the setup was fascinating — a perfect blend of Czech creativity and theatrical flair.

After the tour, some of our group decided to go for a swim in the Vltava, which winds through town in lazy curves. I opted for something a bit more relaxed: a glass of local wine at a riverside café, legs stretched out, watching paddle boarders float by and soaking in the view of the pastel buildings reflecting off the water. It was peaceful, serene, and a reminder of how refreshing stillness can be when you’re constantly on the move.

Dinner was the highlight of the day — we all met back up at a local restaurant recommended by our guide. The food was hearty and delicious (think Czech comfort food with a touch of elegance), and the wine and beer kept flowing as stories from the day circled the table.

After dinner, we wandered back to the main square and discovered a small live music performance underway. It felt like the town had offered us a private concert under the stars. We sat at an outdoor table for one last drink, savoring the music and the company.

Unfortunately, this was, without a doubt, the worst accommodation of the trip. No air conditioning, no fans, and an unfortunate proximity to a church with bells that rang every fifteen minutes through the night as well as noise from a main road. Between the heat and the constant chimes, I clocked in about four hours of sleep — if I’m being generous.

Next stop: Vienna. I can’t say I’ll miss the bells, but I will miss the dreamy charm of Český Krumlov… and the riverside wine.