Solo-ish Summer 2025 days 41-43: Three Days in Budapest—Culture, Baths, and Ruin Bars
After two weeks of traveling through Central Europe, we arrived in Budapest, the final stop on the first half of my 28-day G Adventures tour. The journey from Vienna was seamless—taxis to the train station, a scenic train ride through the countryside, and a short transfer in mini buses to our home for the next few nights: the Ibis Styles Budapest Center. The hotel sits in the heart of Pest, offering easy access to the city’s main attractions. While the air conditioning in the rooms was more “European summer gentle breeze” than “blast of relief” (78°F inside vs. 98°F outside), it still felt like a welcome break from the relentless heat.
Day 1: Exploring Pest & the Jewish Quarter
Our first stop in Budapest was one with heart. We visited Nem Adom Fel Café & Bar, a socially conscious café whose name translates to Never Give Up. This inspiring spot is staffed primarily by differently-abled individuals, providing meaningful employment and a welcoming environment. G Adventures is a regular supporter, and the café also sells beautiful handmade crafts created by its employees. It was a reminder that travel can—and should—make a positive impact.
After coffee, Karen, Marshall, and I had lunch at a local café before meeting up with our group for a two-hour walking tour led by a knowledgeable and enthusiastic local guide. We began at St. Stephen’s Basilica, the largest church in Budapest and home to the mummified right hand of Hungary’s first king, Saint Stephen. From its steps, we had a great view of the city’s mix of neo-classical and eclectic architecture.
We continued toward the Hungarian Parliament Building, a true masterpiece of Neo-Gothic design that hugs the Danube River. With its spires, arches, and massive dome, it’s one of the most photographed buildings in Europe—and rightfully so. We learned about Hungary’s complicated political history, including its Austro-Hungarian past and the more recent years under Soviet influence.
From there, we strolled through the Jewish Quarter, home to the Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest in Europe and second-largest in the world. This area is also known for its powerful Holocaust memorials, vibrant street art, and rebirth as one of Budapest’s cultural hubs.
Our last stop on the tour was the legendary Ruin Bars. These bars are unique to Budapest—set up in abandoned buildings and courtyards of the Jewish Quarter, filled with eclectic furniture, mismatched art, and a wonderfully chaotic atmosphere. They represent the creativity and resilience of the city.
With the heat continuing to push 98°F, we retreated to the hotel for a quick shower and rest. That evening, Marshall and I headed back to the Ruin Bars, specifically Szimpla Kert, the original and most famous of the bunch. We grabbed dinner from the adjoining food stalls—I may have declared these the best nachos ever—and enjoyed a live band that nailed covers of Oasis, Green Day, and Red Hot Chili Peppers. Singing along with a cold drink in hand was the perfect way to end our first day in Budapest.
Day 2: Relaxation at the Széchenyi Thermal Baths
After days of walking tours and scorching sun, we dedicated Day 2 to pure relaxation at the famous Széchenyi Thermal Baths. Located in City Park (Városliget), Széchenyi is one of the largest and oldest thermal bath complexes in Europe. The stunning Neo-Baroque buildings opened in 1913 and contain 18 pools—both indoor and outdoor—fed by two thermal springs that rise from deep within the earth.
The hot, mineral-rich waters are believed to have therapeutic properties, and they draw a diverse crowd—tourists, locals, and retirees playing chess at floating boards. I cycled through a mix of steamy pools, refreshing plunge baths, and even a thermal whirlpool that gently pushes you in circles. The outdoor pool area, framed by ornate yellow walls, is truly photogenic and tranquil despite the crowds.
After hours of soaking, we headed back to prepare for our final group dinner. Mikael, our tour leader for the first 14 days, had guided us brilliantly through five countries, and the dinner felt like both a celebration and a farewell. Six of our group members would be flying home, while four of us—including myself—would continue on the next leg through the Balkans.
We capped the evening with cocktails at 360 Bar, a stylish rooftop venue offering sweeping views of Budapest’s skyline. Watching the sun dip behind the Buda Hills and the Parliament Building light up against the river was the perfect sendoff. A bittersweet moment, filled with laughter, reflection, and anticipation.
Day 3: Solo Stroll Through the Castle District
With a free morning before meeting our new tour group, I ventured across the Széchenyi Chain Bridge to the Buda side of the city. While Pest is flat and buzzing with urban energy, Buda is hilly, residential, and full of history. I made my way to the Castle District, perched high above the Danube, home to some of the city’s most iconic sites.
Buda Castle: Once the royal palace of Hungarian kings, it now houses several major museums including the Hungarian National Gallery, where I spent part of the afternoon exploring medieval and modern Hungarian art.
Fisherman’s Bastion: This fairytale-like terrace with conical towers offers panoramic views of Pest across the river, especially stunning from the top of the bastion’s staircases.
Matthias Church: A richly detailed Gothic church that has served as the site of coronations and royal weddings for centuries. The colorful tiled roof is especially striking.
I stopped for lunch at Főőrség Royal Guard Restaurant, a charming eatery tucked near the palace that specializes in modern Hungarian cuisine. I wrapped up my solo adventure with a cold drink at the National Gallery’s terrace café, watching the Formula 1 qualifying on my phone—blending culture and sport in perfect balance.
Back at the hotel, I met up with our new tour leader and the fresh group of travelers for the next 14 days. Over dinner, we got to know each other and began packing for our next destination: Novi Sad, Serbia. Budapest had delivered a perfect mix of meaning, music, and magic—and I couldn’t wait to see what the Balkans would bring next.
