Solo-ish Summer 2025 Days 50-51: Two Days in Kotor: Sea Breezes, Fireworks, and a seafood obsession

After saying goodbye to beautiful Bosnia, we began our journey from Mostar to Kotor, trading rugged mountains for coastal magic. Somewhere along the way—tucked into a scenic river valley—we pulled off at a roadside restaurant that specializes in spit-roast lamb. Let me just say: if you’re ever in this part of the Balkans and you see a lamb spinning slowly over open flames, stop the car. Tender, smoky, perfectly seasoned—this was the kind of meal that makes you briefly consider abandoning your itinerary to stay another day.

As we got closer to Montenegro, the landscape started to shift. The first view of the Bay of Kotor—with its deep blue water surrounded by steep, green mountains—was jaw-dropping. We pulled over at an overlook above the town of Perast, a postcard-perfect spot where the Adriatic Sea meets medieval stone towns and islands float like mirages in the water. It was one of those “this is why I travel” moments, and no photo could quite do it justice.

Eventually, we descended into Kotor, a walled town tucked at the base of the mountains, where Venetian-style architecture meets Balkan soul. The Old Town is a maze of narrow alleys, sun-warmed stone, and hidden squares—part Game of Thrones, part Mediterranean daydream.

We checked into our hotel, and—as sometimes happens in Europe—I discovered that there was no elevator, and my room was on the fourth floor. Consider it a free leg day. After hauling my suitcase up what felt like a vertical staircase, I rewarded myself with a quick rest before joining the group for a one-hour walking tour of the Old Town. We learned about Kotor’s Venetian heritage, its strategic importance as a port, and how the town has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times due to earthquakes and empires.

Once released to explore on our own, I wandered the stone-paved lanes and stumbled across a tiny jewelry shop where I found a tourmaline necklace and matching earrings. The shimmering green-blue hue reminded me so much of the water in the bay that I had to buy them for myself. A wearable memory.

Dinner that night was a seafood feast—finally, a break from the Balkan meat parade! Grilled squid, fresh fish, mussels, and wine from the region. Kotor, I was beginning to fall for you.

I took another stroll through town before heading to bed, only to be startled awake at midnight by fireworks. For a split second, I thought something was exploding nearby. Turns out it was Montenegro’s Independence Day, and the celebration came with a literal bang. It took me two hours to get back to sleep, but once I remembered where I was, I couldn’t help but smile at how unpredictable and charming travel can be.

Day 2: Kayaks, Islands, and Singing in the Sun

Our second day in Kotor started off with a first for me: kayaking around the stunning Bay of Kotor. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but thankfully I was paired with Jay, who took charge of steering while I handled most of the paddling (though I’m convinced she made me paddle an extra thirty minutes while some of our group slipped away for a cheeky coffee break). Still, gliding across the calm, turquoise water surrounded by dramatic cliffs and terracotta-roofed villages was a peaceful, unforgettable way to start the day.

After that upper body workout, we rewarded ourselves with a well-earned pasta lunch in the Old Town, where carbs never tasted so good. But the real highlight of the day was yet to come—a three-hour boat trip across the bay with two of the guys from the group, our fun-loving skipper, and a playlist that set the perfect mood for an afternoon on the water.

Our first stop was the Our Lady of the Rocks—a tiny, man-made island crowned by a blue-domed Catholic church just off the coast of Perast. Legend has it that local sailors, after surviving a storm, began laying stones in the bay to create the island as a sign of gratitude. Inside the church, there’s an incredible collection of silver votives, maritime paintings, and even a tapestry embroidered by a woman over 25 years—using her own hair. The views from the island were serene, and the sense of tradition and reverence was palpable.

Next up, we cruised into the shadows of the submarine tunnels, relics from Yugoslavia’s Cold War era. Carved into the rocky coastline, these massive, echoing hideouts were once used to shelter military submarines from detection. As we slipped silently inside, the air cooled and the mood shifted—an eerie, fascinating look at a more secretive chapter of Montenegro’s past.

We saved the best for last: the Blue Caves, where the Adriatic Sea sparkles in surreal shades of neon blue. As soon as we arrived, we dove in for a swim. The water was crisp, refreshing, and absolutely magical. Sunlight bouncing off the limestone floor creates a glow that feels otherworldly, like swimming in a sapphire. It was the kind of moment you don’t want to end.

On the ride back, with the sun beginning to dip behind the mountains, our boat turned into a floating karaoke bar. The playlist had us singing along at the top of our lungs, completely off-key and loving every minute. It was one of those simple, spontaneous moments that turns into a core memory.

After cleaning up back at the hotel, Jay and I capped the day with dinner at Pepe Nero, a cozy and stylish spot tucked into one of Kotor’s charming alleyways. I ordered the octopus, and I’m still thinking about it. Perfectly grilled, seasoned just right—it might have been the best I’ve ever had. A glass of crisp white wine and good conversation made it even better.

With full bellies and full hearts, we went to sleep knowing that tomorrow we’d be heading into our final country of the tour: Croatia. But Kotor had left its mark—part mountain magic, part seaside charm, and 100% unforgettable.