Solo-ish Summer 2025 Days 52-54: Dubrovnik Diaries: Women’s Stories, Wine, and Walls on the Adriatic
After a scenic drive from Kotor, we arrived in Dubrovnik—“the Pearl of the Adriatic.” Our hotel, as it turned out, was actually a college dormitory. While not exactly five-star comfort, it came with the essentials and gave us a taste of student life. A few of us grabbed a quick bite at the attached restaurant before heading into town with our guide, Elena.
As we walked, Elena shared some orientation tips and facts about the city, but our first real stop was something a bit different: a visit to the Deša Women’s Center. Housed inside a section of a 16th-century monastery, Deša is a local NGO dedicated to empowering women—especially those affected by the war in the 1990s. Their work focuses on preserving traditional crafts, providing education and training, and promoting cultural heritage. During our visit, we saw a demonstration of the types of workshops they offer, including cooking, embroidery, and crafting. I picked up a jar of their handmade hand cream, which smelled absolutely divine and was a lovely way to support their mission.
After the center visit, I set out on my own to wander the limestone streets of the Old Town. Dubrovnik has a way of swallowing you up in its beauty—every alley feels like a scene from a storybook. I ended up on a panorama boat tour, and with only one other person on board, it felt almost private. The calm waters and panoramic views of Dubrovnik’s iconic walls, Lokrum Island, and the terracotta rooftops were serene and unforgettable.
As the sun began to lower, I found a cozy waterside café for a drink before meeting up with a local guide for a Wine and Bites history tour. Our group of four wound through the medieval streets as our guide shared Dubrovnik’s layered past—how it was once the independent Republic of Ragusa, a maritime power known for diplomacy, shipbuilding, and even the abolition of slavery as early as 1416. The old city’s walls, completed in the 16th century, protected a trading empire that rivaled Venice and endured sieges and earthquakes alike.
The tour wrapped up at a local wine bar where we sampled regional wines paired with a platter of Croatian meats and cheeses. The rich reds and crisp whites complemented the history beautifully. Afterward, I hopped on the bus back to the dorm-hotel, full and happy.
Day 2: A Taste of Dubrovnik
I let myself sleep in a bit and didn’t make it to town until around noon. For brunch, I fully embraced the coastal lifestyle with fresh oysters and truffle pasta at a sunny terrace café. I bought a Dubrovnik Pass, which grants entry to a range of museums and monuments, and got to exploring.
First up was the Rector’s Palace, a stunning mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture that once served as the seat of power for the Republic of Ragusa. Then I visited the Maritime Museum, housed inside the St. John Fortress, which told stories of Dubrovnik’s centuries-old seafaring tradition.
I also stopped by the Wine Museum, a lesser-known gem that showcases the history and diversity of Croatian wines. Croatia has over 130 indigenous grape varieties, and its wine regions stretch from Istria in the north to Dalmatia along the coast. I sampled several types, including Plavac Mali, a bold red grown along the Dalmatian coast, and Pošip, a white varietal from the island of Korčula. It was fascinating to learn how Croatian winemakers balance old-world traditions with modern techniques.
I returned to the dorm to shower and change because that evening’s dinner wasn’t your average meal—it was Dinner in the Sky Dubrovnik. Suspended by a crane high above the city with panoramic views of the Adriatic, I sat at a floating table with strangers-turned-dinner-mates while chefs plated fine dining courses in front of us. The thrill of dangling above Dubrovnik, glass of wine in hand, was exhilarating. Without a doubt, it ranks in my top 5 craziest (and most amazing) travel experiences ever.
Day 3: Morning Walls and a Seaside Farewell
With our ferry to Hvar not departing until 2:40 p.m., I made the most of the morning. After breakfast, I headed into town one last time to walk Dubrovnik’s iconic city walls. These massive stone fortifications wrap around the Old Town and offer breathtaking views of the sea and rooftops. It was an early start, so the crowds were manageable, and I got to enjoy the city from above in peace.
Before heading back, I treated myself to one last seafood lunch overlooking the Adriatic. With the salty breeze, a crisp white wine, and a plate of grilled fish, it was the perfect send-off.
By mid-afternoon, it was time to pack up and catch the ferry to Hvar. Dubrovnik may be polished and touristed, but there’s no denying its power to captivate. From women’s stories and ancient walls to wine in the sky, it delivered a rich, layered experience I won’t soon forget.
Next stop: island vibes in Hvar.