Solo-ish Summer Days 54-55: Island time in Hvar

After a scenic few days in Dubrovnik, our group caught a late afternoon ferry to Hvar at 4:00 PM. The three-hour journey across the Adriatic was surprisingly relaxing. With wide comfy seats and plenty of room to spread out, it felt more like a casual lounge than a mode of transportation. Most of us dozed, chatted, or gazed out at the endless blue as we neared the next stop on our Balkan adventure.

We arrived in Hvar around 7:00 PM as the sun dipped low, casting golden light on the harbor. The hotel had arranged for our bags to be picked up directly from the pier—such a nice touch! That left us free to enjoy the 15-minute walk through the charming waterfront and into the hills above town, where Hotel Pharos awaited us. After a few weeks of modest accommodations, Pharos felt downright luxurious. Ocean views, a sleek modern aesthetic, and a pool—it was easily the nicest place we’d stayed so far.

Rather than venture back into town that evening, Jay and I opted for dinner at the hotel restaurant. With low expectations, we were both pleasantly surprised. The meal was genuinely good, and the setting—outdoors, with the ocean breeze and ambient lighting—was the perfect way to ease into island life.

A Day in Paradise: Pakleni Islands

The next morning was our much-anticipated day trip to the Pakleni Islands, just off Hvar’s coast. We boarded a small boat and cruised about 20 minutes before dropping anchor near a quiet cove. The water was postcard-perfect—crystal clear, impossibly blue, and refreshingly cold. The top deck beckoned, and I joined a handful of others for the brave plunge into the Adriatic from above. It was a jolt of adrenaline followed by pure bliss.

After a solid half-hour of swimming, we pulled anchor and headed to our next stop: a more developed island with a couple of boutique hotels and beachside restaurants. We grabbed a table at Bacchus, right on the water’s edge, where we were treated to a traditional wood-fired seafood lunch—grilled fish, squid, and octopus. The flavors were simple and fresh, perfectly fitting the setting. With the sound of waves lapping against the dock and the sun sparkling off the water, it was one of those meals I’ll remember long after the trip ends.

Our third stop was another swim spot, this time just off a small island with shallow waters and rocky ledges. I decided to snorkel for a bit and was rewarded with views of darting fish and clusters of sea urchins nestled among the rocks.

We made it back to Hvar around 5:30 PM, tired but happy. After a quick shower and change at the hotel, we headed back into town for dinner. Still craving seafood, I went for a wood-fired sea bass that might have topped even lunch. We capped off the night with a stop for ice cream and a slow walk back to the hotel through the softly lit streets.

Hvar was the perfect mix of laid-back charm and natural beauty—just what we needed at this stage of the trip. Tomorrow, we head to our final stop of this incredible 28-day journey: Split. I can’t believe we’re nearly at the end of this tour (but not my own personal travels)!